Archive for June, 2009

Illiteracy Strikes

Sunday, June 28th, 2009

I must have slept, but well before dawn I was dressed and peering down at the awakening street from my room at the Foreign Language Institute on the northern outskirts of Shanghai. The soft yellow light of a small shop across the street warmed the morning darkness; a lone truck rolled by, its tires hissing against wet pavement. A man and woman wrapped in dark-blue padded trousers and jackets moved boxes from

Shop workers in the early morning light

Shop workers in the early morning light

It was my first trip to China, twenty years ago. Another mid-career graduate student and I had arrived in Shanghai near midnight from Los Angeles. Met by friends of our Ph.D. advisor we had been taken to this hotel to get some sleep before traveling on to Nanjing by train.

Early morning light crept into the shadows below me. A street car squealed along the tracks, sparks flickering off the wires. A few people sat inside, some dozing, others talking.

My attention returned to the small shop. Another man appeared and began to adjust the chain on a delivery tricycle. They must be making morning buns, I thought. I looked instinctively at the large Chinese characters attached to the building, only to realize that one twelve-hour flight had rendered me illiterate. To my western eyes, the Chinese writing was purely decorative.

It’s now 2009 and after a score of trips, I’m still illiterate. I have learned a lot about how children learn to write Chinese and how characters are constructed. I can recognize a character for ‘wood’ here, the one for ‘gate’ there, but in everyday life, I remain illiterate in China. Frustrating as it is, it has taught me a lot. I now have an inkling about how people of the world survive who have not had a chance to become literate. I have developed an enormous visual memory for physical detail. The color of a shop door, how the signs in a shop are arranged, what landmarks are nearby, any identifying marks that will help me locate it again.

To figure out what is in a food package, I poke and feel and look at pictures, hoping they are accurate. Sometimes I succeed, other times not. At a banquet on my last trip I presented a large jar of candy to a department dean only to find out those shiny wrappers hid bits of dried beef. Embarrassed in shops, I sometimes study packages and directions much too long, hunting for clues and brushing sales clerks off with a wave of my hand. “Thank you, Xie Xie. I don’t need help.” But really I should say, “I’m beyond help.”

Life along the streets. Xi'an

Life along the streets. Xi'an

An advantage has emerged from this shortcoming, however. My heightened observation skills have led me to see subtleties in every day life. The step by step process a grandfather uses to show his grandson how to throw a fishing line into a small pond. The rhythmic motions of women practicing sword dances in the early morning hours. The way Chinese citizens know how to fit through a space in a crowd that I would never think passable. On and on go my revelations, seen because I can’t read. Definitely a surprise advantage born of my ignorance.

Chinglish

Monday, June 15th, 2009

A year before the Beijing Olympics an article in China Daily, China’s English language newspaper, described a war in Beijing against “baffling English translations” sometimes referred to as “Chinglish.” Some of them are, indeed, amusing to monolingual English speakers or possibly to those fluent in both English and Chinese. For example, one quoted in the article, translates a sign warning about a slippery walkway as “Slip carefully.”

Some English speakers have lamented that corrections are being made. One American living in Shanghai said they “take away one of the joys of China.” The signs, however, are often an embarrassment to Chinese fluent in English. A Chinese foreign language consultant said, “We don’t want anyone laughing at us.” He emphasized that correction of the signs was to help foreigners. The English certainly wasn’t meant to benefit Chinese.

Fourth grade writing practice

Fourth grade writing practice

The longer I spend shuttling back and forth between China and the United States the more I become aware of the unintentional patronizing attitude we Americans have toward portions of Chinese life and toward the difficulties some Chinese have in mastering English even though few American non-Chinese adults try to come to grips with the Chinese language.

It’s so easy to be smug. I found myself smiling recently as I stepped into the shower in a rural hotel and saw a “Slip carefully” warning sign. Even with all my knowledge of the differences between the two languages my instant reaction was amusement at the error.

How easy it is to say — Why didn’t that person spell the word correctly? Why don’t those students get ‘he’ or ’she’ correct? They never use the right verb tense. I can’t understand that person’s accent. Why don’t they speak English better so we can understand it?

Our American impatience and the fact that English has become so widespread internationally have handed a major disadvantage to monolingual English-speakers.

More and more we assume that everyone in the world should speak English. When hotel housekeepers in Beijing or Shanghai can only carry-on simple (and unhelpful) dialogues in English about a missing water bottle or the need for more towels, we become impatient. And when we see signs in English that are not quite right, we are inclined to laugh and point without thinking.

But if we really thought about it, we’d realize these signs, are often written by people who studied English from teachers who have never had the opportunity to talk with a native English speaker. They did their best, but they were only able to achieve 70 or 80 percent perfection, and we Americans expect 98 percent perfection or better. Anything less is quaint or annoying.

The match between English and Chinese is limited in the extreme. I’m amazed when I hear interpreters moving back and forth between the two languages. I wonder how they do it and what processes are flying through their brains.

I have had the advantage to understand this a little. I studied Spanish for 10 years, and then began traveling to China regularly. Spanish certainly didn’t help me in China, and at that point I had no time in my life to learn another language. After a few years, I found an available month to study Chinese in Nanjing. Not enough time to learn much, but I did learn to pronounce the tones. It was also long enough to realize how startlingly different Chinese and English are. A literal translation from English to Chinese or Chinese to English makes no sense. None. There are no tenses in Chinese; time is indicated through the context of the sentence. There are no pronouns. Innuendo is often carried in the visual image of the character, and there is almost no way to translate that portion of the language into English.

What makes me happy or sad.

What makes me happy or sad.

Learning written Chinese is a complicated adventure for Westerners. One little stroke of a character out of place or made wrong can completely change the meaning of the character. Foreigners have to practice long, long hours to come anywhere near being able to write in a rudimentary fashion. On the other hand, Chinese have to struggle mightily with English language structure, with complex verb tenses, and the use of ‘he’ and ’she’ and where on earth English places ‘the’ and ‘a’ and where they don’t.

So when we Westerners come across errors and mis-translations, it would be useful to ask ourselves how perfectly we would be able to write or say the equivalent Chinese. Humility is hard to learn, but sometimes worth it.

China—A Mind-Bending Experience

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

I’m an educator and curious person who has been traveling to China since the cold winter of 1989-90. That was an amazing trip, launched by my Ph.D. advisor and the Nanjing University English Department in China. I had just studied Spanish for 10 years, and China was not at the top of my travel and exploration desires. But I’ve been returning regularly ever since.

I have so much to communicate and so much I want to hear from others. And yet, I’m finding that getting a blog started feels as daunting as when I first contemplated learning to put gas in my car. Having grown up in a world where gas station attendants performed that mysterious task, I balked at learning. Then someone showed me how. I couldn’t believe it. How could I have been intimidated by that process? I had traveled the world, but I was certain that getting gas into my car would involve a complex and technical learning procedure.

Although getting a blog going isn’t quite as simple as pumping gas, where to start is. And yet, I’ve been postponing this first blog entry for months.

A European-American woman—middleclass—I’ve been an educator all my life—working in programs for high school students, teaching in public high school and then elementary school, mentoring beginning teachers, teaching college courses to prospective teachers, consulting, etc. What I have found in China since the moment I went is that, for me at least, it is an exhilarating country. Besides, the culture is so different from my own, it’s like looking at my own world up-side down. Although I’ve walked along the borders of many cultures in the United States, none has been so puzzlingly different as what I meet in China. At the same time, I feel continuously welcome there.

The noise, the crowds, the long history that is hard to fathom, the continuous changes are magnificent to encounter. They bend my mind and ask me to think in new ways. At home in Los Angeles, I covet the quiet of my home. In China, I can’t wait to get off the plane and walk with the throngs of people, soaking up the river of sounds that flow around me.

So, I have started my blog. The next entries, which will come about every two weeks, will dip into some of the multiple thoughts and experiences I’ve had and continue to have there.